Are Gemstones Glued Into Jewelry?

Written By Allie Perry August 23, 2024

One of the most common misconceptions I’ve come across over two decades of doing jewelry repair is the assumption that stones are glued into jewelry. It’s not that surprising, since while you may not know the mechanics of stone setting, you most certainly are familiar with the concept of glue. From your first macaroni art project, you know you can make a project better by gluing something pretty to it. 

A noodle. Ribbon. ✨ Glitter! ✨ 

So why wouldn’t the same concept apply to jewelry?

Sometimes, and very rarely, it does- I’ll go over that later. First, let’s talk about why glue is almost never used to set stones, especially in fine jewelry.

Stones aren't glued into fine jewelry primarily because glue lacks the durability and security needed to protect your valuable gemstones over time. Fine jewelry is designed to last for generations, and adhesive materials can degrade, weaken, or lose their bond, leading to loose or lost stones. You don’t want your stones popping out of your jewelry the same way the elbow macaroni popped off of that birthday card you made for the family dog.

Instead, as a jeweler I use mechanical settings like prongs, bezels, and channels to physically secure gemstones within the metal. Using metal to hold your stones in place creates a more permanent and reliable hold. These traditional methods not only provide you with superior protection for your stones, they also enhance brilliance by allowing light to interact with the gems in ways that glue would obstruct. Elmer himself wouldn’t want to see a beautiful diamond covered in blobs of glue! 

The use of mechanical settings and traditional stone-setting techniques reflect the craftsmanship and quality associated with fine jewelry, where precision and skill are paramount.

What are Traditional Stone Setting Techniques?

The majority of gemstones in jewelry are set using mechanical methods, which involve physically securing the stone in place with metal .Here are some of the most common techniques:

1. Prong Setting: One of the most popular methods, prong settings use metal claws (prongs) to grip the stone securely. The prongs are bent over the stone’s edges, holding it in place while allowing maximum light exposure to enhance the gem's brilliance.
2. Bezel Setting: In a bezel setting, a thin metal rim encircles the gemstone, holding it securely in place. This method is particularly popular for protecting stones from damage and is often used for softer gems.
3. Channel Setting: This method involves placing stones closely together in a channel made by two metal walls that go up and over the top edges of the stones. Pressure from the metal walls holds the stones in place, creating a sleek, continuous line of gemstones.
4. Pavé Setting: Small gemstones are set closely together and held in place by tiny beads or prongs in this technique. The result is a surface that appears to be paved with stones, hence the name.
5. Invisible Setting: As the name suggests, this setting gives the illusion that the stones are floating without any visible means of support. The stones are cut with grooves on their sides and set into a metal framework beneath the surface, which remains hidden from view.

When Is Glue Used in Jewelry?

While glue is not the go-to method for securing gemstones in fine jewelry, it does have its place in certain situations:

1. Costume Jewelry: In costume or fashion jewelry, which is typically more affordable and made with non-precious metals and stones, glue is often used to attach rhinestones, foil back crystals, or other decorative elements. Since these pieces are not designed for long-term wear or investment, glue provides a quick and easy way to set stones.
2. Inlay Work: When crushed or sliced stone is inlaid into recesses in jewelry, specialty adhesives are used to hold the stone in place. 
3. Pearl Jewelry: Aside from pearls that are knotted into strands, most pearls are glued into jewelry. Since their nacre is so delicate, and there are no facets for metal to hold onto, traditional setting methods will not usually work on pearls. Instead, it’s common for your pearl jewelry to have hidden pegs that go into tiny holes drilled into the pearls. Specialty adhesives then hold the pearls on the pegs.
4. Marcasite Jewelry: Marcasites are often glued into jewelry due to their small size and brittleness, making adhesive a practical method to securely hold these stones in place without risking damage from traditional metal settings.
5. Repair Work: Glue is usually not the right answer for jewelry repairs, but sometimes it’s used as a last resort when other methods either won’t work, or will cause more harm than good.

The Pros and Cons of Using Glue in Jewelry

Pros:

• Quick and Easy: Glue can provide a fast solution for securing stones, especially in less expensive or costume jewelry.
• Versatile: It can be used with a variety of materials, including metals, plastics, and ceramics.

Cons:

• Less Durable: Over time, glue can break down or lose its adhesive properties, leading to loose stones.
• Not Ideal for Fine Jewelry: Glue is not considered a high-quality method for setting precious gemstones and is generally avoided in fine jewelry making.

So now you know. There are rare occasions in jewelry where glue has its uses, but it is not the preferred method for setting stones in high-quality pieces. Experienced, reputable jewelers rely on time-tested techniques like prong, bezel, and channel settings to ensure that gemstones are securely and beautifully displayed.

Want to see all of the things I make with stones that aren’t glued in? Click here to check them out!