What Are the Different Stone Settings in My Jewelry?
Written By Allie Perry October 25, 2024
So you’ve decided to have an old piece of jewelry redesigned. Congratulations! Redesigning and upcycling your jewelry is an amazing way to reuse old items, and it should be a fun process!
But where do you start?
You know you don’t like the old setting. It’s dated. It’s broken. It’s something you inherited that you’ll absolutely never wear. But you love the stones and want to reuse them in a brand new piece.
You may think you should start with the designs you think look prettiest, but that’s a trap!
Not all settings are good for all stones, and not all designs will work well for you and your specific lifestyle!
This goes for any jewelry design, whether you’re having a piece commissioned or buying something that’s already made, so let’s talk about your options,
How Do I Choose the Right Jewelry Setting?
Choosing the right stone setting is essential for a long-lasting piece of jewelry that you’ll love to wear. Different settings obviously determine the overall style of your jewelry, but they can also dramatically affect the durability of your jewelry and the appearance of your stones.
One style might be great for a special-occasion showstopper, but horrible for everyday wear. And the setting that matches your aesthetic may not stand up to the kind of wear and tear you’ll put it through. This is especially true if you’re like me and are brutal on your jewelry no matter how careful you try to be…and it’s especially important to understand so you can avoid buying a beautiful piece of jewelry that will give you a lifetime of maintenance headaches.
When designing or purchasing jewelry, talk to your jeweler and ask them if the piece will be right for you. Be honest with them about how active you are and how frequently you’d like to wear the piece, and ask questions about anything you may be unsure of. Fair warning, if you do this at a big chain store, the sales associate may be more interested in selling whatever piece makes them the largest commission, and less interested in taking the time to find the piece that will be best for you.
What Types of Jewelry Stone Settings Are There?
1. Prong Setting
The prong setting is one of the most popular stone settings. You’ve seen it in person, even if you didn’t know what it was called. This type of setting is known for holding stones securely while allowing maximum light to pass through, enhancing brilliance.
- Design: The stone is held in place by metal prongs (round or flat bars) that come up and over the girdle of the stone and grip it tightly.
- Pros: Highlights the stone with minimal metal coverage, making it appear larger and more brilliant.
- Cons: Prongs can catch on fabric or loosen over time. They need to be checked regularly to make sure they haven’t bent out of alignment or worn down.
- Best for: Diamonds and gemstones where sparkle and clarity are priorities, such as solitaire rings and stud earrings.
2. Bezel Setting
The bezel setting encircles the stone with a rim of metal, offering both style and security.
- Design: The metal wraps around the stone’s perimeter, holding it in place.
- Pros: Offers exceptional protection, especially for softer stones; low-profile setting is great for daily wear.
- Cons: Less light exposure can reduce sparkle slightly; adds a modern, clean look that may not suit vintage styles. They’re heavier (and more expensive) than other setting styles since they use more metal.
- Best for: Cabochon stones, softer gemstones (like opals), modern designs, and everyday wear for active lifestyles due to its durability.
3. Channel Setting
Commonly seen in bands and eternity rings, the channel setting creates a sleek and elegant look by positioning stones between two parallel metal walls.
- Design: Stones are set flush between two bars or channels, with no prongs.
- Pros: Protects the stones’ edges from impact; smooth surface prevents snagging, clean look.
- Cons: Can be challenging to resize; more metal may mean less sparkle than other settings.
- Best for: Small stones, often diamonds, set in wedding bands, stackable rings, or anniversary rings.
4. Pavé Setting
The pavé setting features a series of small stones set closely together, creating a glittering surface with minimal visible metal.
- Design: Stones are held by tiny prongs or beads, creating a "paved" look across the metal.
- Pros: Maximizes sparkle with small stones; creates a luxurious, high-end look.
- Cons: Tiny stones can be more prone to loosening; setting may require more frequent check-ups.
- Best for: Wedding bands, halo settings around larger stones, and creating vintage-inspired designs.
5. Tension Setting
This contemporary setting suspends the stone between two metal ends, giving the illusion that it’s floating.
- Design: The stone is held in place by the tension of the metal, with no prongs or bezels.
- Pros: Striking, modern look; exposes the stone to maximum light, easy to clean.
- Cons: Challenging to resize; best suited for harder stones like diamonds or sapphires; not suitable for jewelry made of soft metals.
- Best for: Pieces with a minimalist, cutting-edge aesthetic; pieces that won’t be worn every day.
6. Halo Setting
The halo setting surrounds a central stone with a ring of smaller stones, often enhancing the center stone's appearance and sparkle.
- Design: A ring of smaller stones encircles the main stone, sometimes in multiple layers.
- Pros: Enhances the size and brilliance of the center stone; versatile for various stone shapes.
- Cons: Can appear overly ornate to some; additional stones may increase maintenance needs.
- Best for: Engagement rings, pendants, or earrings, where a striking central stone is desired.
7. Cluster Setting
The cluster setting brings together multiple stones in various configurations, often forming unique shapes or patterns.
- Design: Smaller stones are arranged close together, sometimes around a larger central stone.
- Pros: Can create a larger, dramatic look without using a single large stone; budget-friendly.
- Cons: Stones may shift over time; more maintenance may be needed to keep stones secure.
- Best for: Vintage-inspired designs, floral motifs, and unique, artistic jewelry pieces.
8. Gypsy Setting (Flush Setting)
With the gypsy setting, the stone is set flush with the metal surface, creating a smooth, unadorned look.
- Design: The stone is placed into a drilled hole in the metal, with the metal molded around it.
- Pros: Extremely secure and resistant to snagging; ideal for active lifestyles.
- Cons: Less sparkle due to limited light exposure; minimalist appearance may not suit all styles.
- Best for: Durable jewelry for everyday wear and subtle, low-profile designs.
This list is comprehensive, but not exhaustive! Now you understand that the right setting can make all the difference in showcasing your stone and matching your lifestyle, you can do some of your own research and go to your jeweler with informed questions. We’ve all had clothing or shoes that we love the look of but hate to wear- that beautiful sweater that snags on something every five minutes, or those sleek black heels that look amazing but turn you into some baby giraffe unsure of their own legs any time there’s the slightest bit of uneven ground at an event. Taking the time to choose the right setting for your jewelry will help you find a setting you love, and help you avoid buying jewelry you never want to wear because it doesn’t function well for you!
Allie is the owner and goldsmith behind Allie Perry Designs.
Learn more about her here, or connect with her on Instagram!
Want to learn how to determine jewelry size using tools you already have? Check out my ebook, Find Your Perfect Jewelry Size
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