Can I Get My Old Stones Set Into New Jewelry?

Written By Allie Perry October 18, 2024

I’ll give you the TLDR for this article at the jump- YES, you can get your old stones set into new jewelry.

Sometimes your jewelry is just a sparkly accessory that makes you happy or draws attention, akin to (but less dangerous than) a shiny lure for a fish. Sometimes it serves as a big reward for your milestone achievements or a little treat for no reason at all, both of which I think are equally valid. And sometimes your jewelry is imbued with sentimental significance or memories of your personal history.

But while a certain jewelry industry slogan would have you believe that diamonds are forever, jewelry is in fact, not. Stones will break, metals will wear down or thin out and stop doing their job effectively, and styles and tastes will change over time.

This doesn’t mean you have to abandon your old jewelry, forcing it to languish in the dusty back section of your jewelry box with your old Blockbuster card and that novelty necklace you bought for Halloween that one year. I love a good keepsake as much as the next person, but jewelry is meant to be worn and enjoyed, not hidden away! So if it’s broken, missing stones, or beyond repair, reuse the materials in a new project!  If it’s just something you’d never wear again (or an inherited piece that you’d never wear for the first time 😳), have it taken apart and made into something else!

Your jeweler can help you understand what’s possible and what challenges you may face, but let's start with the pros and cons of reusing old stones in new jewelry.

Pros and Cons of Resetting Stones

Pros:

1. Preserve Sentimental Value: Resetting a stone from an heirloom piece allows you to keep the sentimental value while updating the design to suit your style.
2. Be More Sustainable: Reusing old gemstones is an eco-friendly option. Instead of sourcing new stones, you’re giving a new purpose to gems you already own.
3. Create a Custom Piece: By resetting a stone, you have the opportunity to create a one-of-a-kind piece that reflects your unique taste!
4. Upgrade or Repair: If the original setting is damaged or outdated, resetting the stone ensures it remains secure and enhances its appearance.
5. Make the Most of Your Budget: Using existing stones (and sometimes metal!) is a great way to keep your jewelry project budget lower.

Cons:

1. Potential Damage to the Stone: One of the biggest risks in removing stones from old jewelry is the potential for damage, particularly with softer stones like opals or pearls. Even diamonds, while durable, can chip or crack during the removal process if not handled properly.
2. Exposing Hidden Flaws: A qualified stone setter can minimize the appearance of unwanted quality characteristics in a stone, and removing the stone from its existing setting will expose any unwanted details that were previously hidden.
3. Cost: Depending on the complexity of the new design and the state of the original setting, resetting a gemstone can be costly. Professional jewelers may charge high fees for custom designs or intricate settings.
4. Loss of Original Design: Once the stone is removed, the original piece of jewelry is altered permanently. This can sometimes reduce the value of the antique setting, especially if it had historical or collectible significance.
5. Sizing Issues: If you’re planning to set your old stone in a premade mounting, you will be limited to those settings that can accommodate the stone’s size and shape. Certain settings may have size limitations, and specialty shapes and sizes may only work in a handmade piece designed around your exact stone.

What are New Setting Options for Old Stones?

Once your stone is removed from its original setting, you have countless options for how to set it into new jewelry. Here are some popular choices to get you started:

1. Halo Settings: Surrounding a gemstone with smaller diamonds or gems in a halo can give an old stone a modern, glamorous look. This style works beautifully for engagement rings or pendants.
2. Bezel Setting: This involves encasing the gemstone in a thin metal rim. A bezel setting offers more protection for the stone and gives a sleek, modern appearance, which is ideal for daily wear pieces.
3. Solitaire Setting: A simple and timeless design, solitaire settings focus all the attention on your gemstone, making it the centerpiece of the jewelry. This is a great option for larger stones, and works in rings, pendants, and earrings.
4. Three-Stone Settings: Incorporating smaller stones on either side of your main gem can add depth and dimension. This is a popular choice for engagement rings, anniversary gifts, or statement jewelry.
5. Cluster Setting: Grouping multiple smaller stones around the central gem can create a bold and unique piece. Cluster settings are often used in vintage-inspired designs but can be given a modern twist.

Who Should You Go to for Resetting?

Not all jewelers are skilled in resetting stones, especially from antique or delicate pieces. Look for a jeweler with experience in gemstone removal and custom design. Ideally, you want someone who specializes in stone resetting and has a portfolio of past work that includes both vintage and modern designs.

Be sure to ask about the jeweler’s process and whether they will be doing the work themself, or contracting the work out to another party. Whenever possible, it’s best to work directly with the jeweler who will be doing the work, and avoid any third parties that can contribute to miscommunication, loss, or damage to your jewelry.

Updating Your Jewelry Insurance Policy

Once your gemstone is reset into a new piece, don’t forget to update your insurance policy! The value of the new piece will likely be different from the original, especially if you’ve added additional stones or upgraded the metal, and you want to make sure you have sufficient coverage. On the flip side, you don’t want to be paying for more insurance than you need! 

• Reappraise the Jewelry: After resetting the stone, have the new piece professionally appraised to determine its updated value. This is essential if the new setting uses more expensive materials or if the original setting had historical value that no longer applies.
• Update Your Insurance Coverage: Contact your insurance provider to update your policy based on the new appraisal. Whether you have standalone jewelry insurance or it’s part of your homeowner’s or renter’s policy, ensuring that the updated value is covered will protect your piece against loss, damage, or theft. When updating your policy, be sure to get a clear understanding of any deductible you may have for future claims.

Resetting stones from your old jewelry into new designs is a fantastic way to preserve sentimental value, create a piece that reflects your personal style, and build out your jewelry collection with pieces you truly love! It’s essential to weigh the risks and rewards before you make your decision, but with the help of an experienced jeweler, you can give your cherished gemstones a second (or third, or fourth) life!